When I first went there in 1975 the place was unspoiled by the commercial and terrifying dictatorship of the nouveau riche, so prevalent these days, with their large automobiles and noisy stereo systems. Another visit in the year 2000 showed a terrible trend of chic boutiques and expensive posadas catering to the capitalinos. But the town still survives in its secret corners and ancient stones and fossils, which are scattered all over the surrounding hills.
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